BBQ Season Begins

 

I love the summer and the effortlessness of dining al fresco. Any excuse to eat outdoors appeals to my Pacific Northwest upbringing and I just love the way NYC expands in the warmer weather months. With windows and gallery doors being flung open, the city takes on new exuberance. So this last weekend, despite the dreary weather forecast, my husband and I stoked the charcoal grill and enticed friends over as the weather cleared Saturday night. We took advantage of Many Kitchens’ numerous offerings for grilling season from Sel Magique’s classic blend to Stuart & Co.’s line of BBQ sauces and rubs as well as to a staple in our home, Baron’s International Kitchen’s Jerk Sauce (though sadly we had already eaten our way through their Caribbean Hot Sauce). It was the easiest meal plan ever. With the addition of some staple sides like lightly steamed green beans, grilled corn on the cob, potato salad and buttermilk biscuits, we were all stuffed.

 

Saltimbocca alla Romana

 

This weekend I found myself craving Saltimbocca. It’s one of my favorite dishes but for some reason, I only ever seem to cook it in Italy. Retail therapy no longer an option, I’ve found that ‘culinary therapy’ works pretty well when in need of cheering up. So I took my taste buds to Italy for the day where I’m always at my happiest; Veal Saltimbocca for lunch and the uber comforting Spaghetti alla Carbonara for dinner (recipe next week).

 

 

Veal Saltimbocca

Serves 2


For those of you opposed to veal, you can easily substitute chicken or even turkey but make sure to beat the breasts as thin as you can get them.

 

Ingredients

2 large veal scallops
2 slices of fontina
4 sage leaves
2 slices of Parma ham
½ cup of all purpose flour
2 tablespoons of Marsala Wine (or white wine if you can’t find Marsala)
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
4 tablespoons of butter
2 toothpicks

 

Method

1. Pat the veal scallops dry with kitchen towel and then place 2 sage leaves on each scallop.
2. Place a slice of Fontina cheese on top of the sage leaves.
3. Cover each scallop with a slice of Parma ham.
4. Secure with a toothpick.
5. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat in a large heavy skillet.
6. When the butter is hot, dredge the veal in flour and shake off any excess.
7. Place veal in the pan, Parma ham side down and cook for 2 minutes.
8. Flip both scallops and cook for another minute.
9. Remove the veal to a plate and keep warm while you make the sauce.
10. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan along with the Marsala and the lemon juice.
11. Stir and reduce for 1 minute.
12. Pour the sauce over the veal and serve. Don’t forget to remove the toothpicks!

I like to serve them with roasted potatoes and string beans.

Mother’s Day Brunch

 

If it weren’t for my Mother, I would never have learned to cook, parallel park or paint a wall. For me, it’s never been an issue of technique but of patience, mainly my utter lack of it.

 

Mom would always catch me when I tried to take shortcuts like the time I wanted to “learn to sew” and instead of using a needle and thread I found a stapler. (Note to my mother: you have to admit, the stapler was far more efficient). Or the time I tried to melt a block of cheese to make a bastardized Mornay sauce. Sometimes you just have to do things the right way.

 

So in tribute to my mother who I can’t join for Mother’s Day, I’d love to share a well planned and executed Mother’s Day Brunch. Proving that yes, I have listened to her all these years.

 

I plan to have this meal with my mother when I see her next in Portland and I’m hoping that she’ll bring her cinnamon rolls. She is famous for never giving the recipe in its correct form. She likes to say she “measures by hand” but the recipe changes every time so no one but her can recreate it. Pretty sneaky, don’t you think?

 


Bellini

Ingredients

2 oz. peach purée

6 oz. prosecco

 

Method

1. Add prosecco to a champagne flute.

2. Top with peach purée

 

Iced Tea with Mint Simple Syrup 

Serves 6
12 teaspoons of favorite tea (I used Scarlet Glow but you can also substitute 1 bag for every 2 teaspoons if you aren’t using loose leaf)
1 lemon

 

Simple Syrup

Ingredients
1/2 cup sugar
1 bunch fresh mint leaves

 

Method
1.To make simple syrup, take a small saucepan and combine 1/2 cup of water with 1/2 cup of sugar.

2. Bring to a boil and add a handful of fresh mint leaves.

3. Stir until sugar has disolved and allow to rest for about 10 minutes.

4. Next brew tea (I like to brew it a little stronger if I’m mixing it for an iced tea). 

5. Remove mint leaves from simple syrup and discard. Add infused simple syrup to the tea to reach desired sweetness. 

6. Refrigerate until cool (this can be done overnight). 

7. Serve over ice with a garnish of a lemon slice and sprig of fresh mint. Very refreshing!


Sautéed Mushroom, Tarragon, Shallot and Goat Cheese Salad 

Serves 2


Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
1 container of baby portabella mushrooms, rinsed and sliced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh chopped tarragon
2 cups rinsed and torn boston lettuce
1/2 cup goat cheese crumbled
Olive Oil
Salt and freshly cracked pepper

 

Method

1. In a medium sized sauté pan add butter and melt on medium-high heat.

2. Add in mushrooms, shallot and tarragon. Cook in batches so as not to overcrowd about 8 minutes per batch- turning several times.

3. Cook until shallot has begun to caramelize and mushrooms are golden brown.

4. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Plate 1 cup of lettuce per serving and drizzle with a good olive oil

6. Top with warm mushroom mixture and crumbled goat cheese. 

7. Add a bit of cracked pepper and serve warm.


Basic Hollandaise 

Makes about 1 cup


Ingredients
4 egg yolks
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1 lemon, juiced
8 tablespoons of butter (1 stick), melted
2 dashes of tabasco sauce (optional)
Salt and freshly cracked pepper


Method

1. Fill a small saucepan with water to measure  2 inches up its sides. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer.

2. In a heat-proof bowl, whisk the egg yolks.

3. Add bowl to the top of the saucepan (make sure no part of the bowl touches the water– you don’t want to scramble the yolks).

4. Whisk yolks until they double in size and add dijon and lemon juice.

5. Slowly drizzle in melted (but not sizzling hot) butter, whisking as you go.

6. Once sauce is evenly mixed and easily coats the back of a spoon, add in tabasco, if desired, and season with salt and pepper.

*If you break your hollandaise, an easy remedy is to add another egg yolk and 1 tablespoon of cold water and whisk until sauce returns to its correct texture.

 

Perfect Poached Egg

Ingredients
2 teaspoons vinegar (white wine or rice vinegar work great)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 egg

 

Method

1. Fill a saute pan with 2-inch sides halfway up with water and bring to a boil.

2. Reduce to a simmer and add vinegar and salt.

3. Crack your egg into a measuring cup/teacup. Slowly pour your egg into center of the pan and use a slotted spoon to stir the water until the egg whites gather around the yolk.

4. Cover the pan, turn off the heat and allow to rest for 5 minutes covered.

5. Use a slotted spatula (I prefer over a spoon) to collect the poached egg.

6. Blot off excess water with a paper towel and serve warm. The white should be firm and the yolk soft but not too jiggly.

 

Serve with
4 Extra Extra Large Latkes from Linda’s Gourmet Latkes (or if you’re feeling ambitious: make them yourself)
4 hearty slices of Smoked Salmon
1/4 cup finely chopped chives to garnish
Freshly cracked pepper

 

Method

1. Warm latkes according to instructions.

2. Top with smoked salmon, a perfectly poached egg and a generous helping of hollandaise sauce.

3. Serve two per plate since these are sooo delicious!

4. Garnish with chives and freshly cracked pepper. Enjoy!

Hot Cilantro Margarita

 

This recipe is compliments of Rachel Hirshorn, long-time friend and margarita afficionado. Rachel dishes up the best margaritas! The week of my wedding she was winning over friends and family alike with another incarnation of this recipe which added watermelon chunks to kick it up a notch for summer. The result was utter bliss. She generously shared her recipe with Many Kitchens and we thought it a perfect cocktail for Cinco de Mayo!

 



Hot Cilantro Margarita

Ingredients
1.5 oz jalapeño infused tequila, method below (Patron Silver, I prefer…but don’t go more expensive than that because the balance of the liquor becomes more delicate)
2 sprigs of cilantro
1 oz Cointreau or Triple Sec
0.5 oz Fresh orange juice
Dash of simple syrup (blend to taste)
Dash of fresh lemon juice
Dash of fresh lime juice
Dash dash of tabasco
Optional: rimmed glass (lime juice and sea salt)

Infused Tequila:

 

Slice whole jalapeños once down the middle and marinate for one week inside tequila bottle OR, if pressed for time, muddle one very small piece with seeds)


Method

1. Start by tearing the cilantro by hand into shaker, as small as you can (don’t muddle…never gets as much flavor in my experience).

2. Add the rest of the ingredients with exception of tabasco.

3. Shake rigorously.

4. Pour up in martini glass, or over ice in tall collins.

5. Float two dashes of tabasco on top.

6. Garnish with Cilantro sprig and lime.

7. Enjoy!

An Ode to Marcella

 

My mother has always said, “If you can read you can cook”. I adopted, repeated and used her adage until I realized how many times a new cookbook had failed me. I’ve learnt the hard way not to test out a new recipe at a dinner party. Lamb cutlets with yoghurt and cumin from a celebrity chef’s latest book sounded so promising and tested with disastrous results on my poor friends. A retroactive apology to anyone at that dinner! There are a few exceptions of cookery writers who have never let me down and whose recipes I would happily try for the first time even if entertaining The Queen (well maybe not The Queen). Top of that list is Marcella Hazan so I’d hereby like to change the saying to “If you can read Marcella, you can cook”. Doesn’t have quite the same ring to it but that doesn’t diminish its truth.

 

My good friend, Patrick Nolan, has been undertaking a Julie/Julia inspired project of working his way through the entire Marcella collection. Quite an undertaking which has taken him years in part because he keeps discovering recipes that become staples in his repertoire like Sauteed scallops in Garlic Parsley and Winter Meatballs with Savoy Cabbage, stopping him from moving on to new ones.


It’s so hard for me to name my favorite Marcella recipe but her Bolognese is a true classic and the reason my lasagna is always such a hit even prompting my friend Dwight to tell a guy I was dating that if he was thinking of ending it with me, he should wait until he had tasted my lasagna. He did wait…..just. Apparently “Getting the lasagna” has become a saying in Dwight’s household. It also disputes another old adage that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach.

 

In deference to my publishing past, I won’t breach copyright by transcribing a complete recipe but I will list a few more of my favorites — you’ll just have to buy the books to get the recipes. No lover of Italian food should be without them.

 

Asparagus and prosciutto bundles with fontina
Blender pesto
Orecchiette with broccoli and anchovy sauce
Pan roasted Chicken with garlic, rosemary and white wine
Roast chicken with lemon
Carrots with butter and parmesan cheese (omitting the parmesan)
Stuffed squid braised in white wine

 

And so many more…..

Quesadillas, Bahamian Style

 

I try to meet up with my friend Ben at least once a year somewhere fun since we live so far away from each other. Five years ago we spent an idyllic Christmas on Harbour Island and finally decided to return after some misguided attempts by me at winter sports. By misguided I mean that my idea of sports is an energetic game of Ping Pong. I hadn’t skied since my teens and was more than a little terrified but having based my hotel research more on food than quality of slopes, I felt reassured that even if I broke my leg on the first day, at least I would eat well for the rest of the vacation.

 

Coming from a long line of sun worshippers though, the call of the winter sun was just too strong so a few weeks ago, after what seemed like a brutal winter, we returned to the pink sands and clear blue waters of The Bahamas. Top on my list of reasons to return to Harbour Island were the Lobster Quesadillas at Sip Sip. It’s rare that after 5 years of craving a particular food, the reality lives up to the memory. In this case, they were actually better than I remembered! There’s something very comforting about returning to a place you’ve been before and knowing the lay of the land, even bumping into some locals that we had made friends with on our last visit as well as making new ones. It was a perfect vacation.

 

On my return to New York, with the snow falling outside, I tried to recreate those Quesadillas in the hope that they would transport me back to the slow bliss of Island life. It was a little hard to replace the grey sleet falling outside with the bright glare coming off the Caribbean Sea so I actually closed my eyes on the first bite and imagined that the cars outside my window were the waves lapping the shore. It almost worked until a siren came roaring down my street and rudely brought me back to reality.

 

So here are a few photos from Briland (as we learnt to call it) as well as my slightly more economical version of Sip Sip’s famous Quesadilla.

 

 The Landing Hotel

 

The Pigly Wigly where we stocked up on snacks for our sundowners!

 

 

Sunset from our balcony at The Landing.

 

 

One of the many art galleries on Harbour Island.

 

 

The View from the infamous Sip Sip.

 

 

Without a shadow of a doubt, the best photo of me ever taken. Thanks Ben!

 

 

Sip Sip’s board promoting the crown jewels.

 

 

The original Lobster Quesadilla (almost) big enough for two.

 


Shrimp Quesadilla

Serves 1-2


Quesadilla

Ingredients

½ lb cooked shrimp
2 flour tortillas
½ cup of grated Jack cheese
½ cup of grated sharp cheddar cheese
Small bunch of scallions finely chopped
1 yellow pepper finely diced
1 red pepper finely diced

 

Chipotle Lime Crema 

Ingredients

1/3 cup of sour cream
1 teaspoon of chipotle sauce
1 generous squeeze of lime juice

 

Method

1. In a large non stick frying pan heat a little butter or olive oil on a medium flame.
2. Place one tortilla in the pan and cover with shrimp, grated cheese and the white part of the spring onions.
3. Place the second tortilla on top of the cheese and shrimp.
4. Leave for a few minutes until the bottom tortilla has started to brown.
5. Using 2 spatulas, flip the quesadilla and brown the other side.
6. Transfer onto a cutting board and cut into 4 wedges.
7. Once on a plate, garnish with the diced peppers and green portion of the spring onions.
8. Mix all the ingredients for the lime crema and drizzle over the quesadilla before serving.

 

San Francisco

 

I felt oddly guilty going on a business trip in which the main purpose was to eat. It felt more like a vacation; planning every day around meals. I was pretty meticulous in my research helped by foodie friends who either live or have lived in the Bay Area. I mapped out the farmers markets, gourmet shops and restaurants that I wanted to visit and happily filled four days foraging for gourmet food. I fittingly ended the trip with an evening pilgrimage to Chez Panisse that fully lived up to its reputation.

 

I didn’t just eat though – I met amazing people too. I’ve discovered since entering the food world that people who are passionate about what they do are very generous with their time and knowledge. This was also true in the book world and I wonder if it is true in every business. The wonderful Jane Connors from the Ferry Building personally took me around and introduced me to producers that she thought I’d like to meet. The Ferry Building is a Mecca to food and on this particularly glorious sunny day the colors of the flowers and vegetables were almost cartoon like. I spent the whole day slightly overwhelmed by all the foods on display but happy in the knowledge that places like this still exist in the world.

 

The next day Samin Nosrat; writer, cook, teacher and all round omniscient foodie, met me for coffee and shared her (very long) list of favorite producers with me. These are just two examples of the extreme generosity I encountered from people to whom I was basically a total stranger.

 

Below are a few photos from my what I hope will be the first of many food foraging trips.

 

Anenomes outside the Ferry Building

 

 

Swiss Chard outside the Ferry Building

 

 

Carrots outside the Ferry Building

 

 

Crispy Imperial rolls at The Slanted Door

 

 

Toby’s Feed Barn in Point Reyes

 

 

San Francisco from Tiburon

 

 

The view from Route 1

 

 

The Golden Gate Bridge

 

Jerk Chicken Sandwich

 

I didn’t travel to St. Lucia for the food. I may be spoiled from years of dining in NYC but for me the Caribbean is more about a much needed break from the gray days of February than a culinary destination. This is not to knock local production. The bananas were the best I have eaten in my life: smaller, sweeter and packed with flavor! And the local beer, Piton, is a welcome addition to any meal. But for our vacation, the options weren’t enough to pull me off the beach and get motivated to really sit down and properly dine. So, when my husband found a deal in town for what he described as a wonderful jerk chicken sandwich I wasn’t overly optimistic but succumbing to his enthusiasm, I finally agreed to try it for lunch.

 

Two hours later, he was eagerly planning our day around this sandwich. I humored him as he gave time checks until he’d be taking his first bite. Then as he told me the time had drawn near with a smile on his face that one could only be described as ecstatic, I reluctantly pried my sundrenched body from its comfortable lounge chair and followed him into town. As we sat down, I was really not feeling hungry. Josh urged me to order something of my own but I said no, I simply wasn’t hungry; I would just have a bite of his sandwich. He asked again, but I politely declined saying I couldn’t possibly eat more than a bite.

 

Well that bite turned into two and then turned into me finishing half of his sandwich. My biggest crime; snatching some of the jerk chicken that had fallen on the plate which left his final bite as just two halves of a lackluster bun. It was just that good! Valentina later told me that my particular style of “sharing” was grounds for divorce. So, the dastardly wife that I am I figured I at least owed my husband a really good jerk chicken sandwich when we got home to New York.

 

The best thing about this recipe is it uses jerk marinade and hot sauce, my two favorite products from the Caribbean. Lucky for us, Baron’s International Kitchen sells a wickedly delicious version of both.

 

Jerk Chicken Sandwich 

Serves 4


Ingredients
4 thinly sliced chicken breasts
Jerk Marinade
4 brioche buns
1 tablespoon Caribbean hot sauce
3 tablespoons Mayonnaise
4 slices provolone cheese
Lettuce
Tomato

 

Pineapple Relish

Ingredients
1/4 cup finely cubed pineapple
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno
3 tablespoons cubed yellow pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons lime juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt and freshly cracked pepper

 

Method

1. Marinate chicken in Jerk Sauce for 30 minutes (this can also be done overnight). 

2. Turn on broiler to high. Meanwhile, mix all ingredients of the pineapple relish in a medium bowl, season with salt and pepper and set aside.

3. Toast buns, then in a small bowl mix Caribbean hot sauce with mayonnaise. 

4. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and set a wire rack on top. Lay chicken across rack and broil about 4 minutes per side (cook chicken until no longer pink). 

5. Top with cheese and return for 1 minute to oven. 

6. Dress buns with zesty mayo, lettuce and tomato. 

7. Add jerk chicken and top with pineapple relish. 

8. Serve with coleslaw, fries and either an ice-cold Piton or Rum Punch… and please, no sharing!

Shrimp Quesadilla


Shrimp Quesadilla

Serves 1-2


Quesadilla

Ingredients

½ lb cooked shrimp
2 flour tortillas
½ cup of grated Jack cheese
½ cup of grated sharp cheddar cheese
Small bunch of scallions finely chopped
1 yellow pepper finely diced
1 red pepper finely diced

 

Chipotle Lime Crema 

Ingredients

1/3 cup of sour cream
1 teaspoon of chipotle sauce
1 generous squeeze of lime juice

 

Method

1. In a large non stick frying pan heat a little butter or olive oil on a medium flame.
2. Place one tortilla in the pan and cover with shrimp, grated cheese and the white part of the spring onions.
3. Place the second tortilla on top of the cheese and shrimp.
4. Leave for a few minutes until the bottom tortilla has started to brown.
5. Using 2 spatulas, flip the quesadilla and brown the other side.
6. Transfer onto a cutting board and cut into 4 wedges.
7. Once on a plate, garnish with the diced peppers and green portion of the spring onions.
8. Mix all the ingredients for the lime crema and drizzle over the quesadilla before serving.

 

Mexican Pulled Beef Tacos

 

Last week my friends Camille and Josh hosted a dinner for our good friend Henry who was visiting from England. It was one of those perfect evenings when I look around the table and have a silent smug moment about how great my friends and how lucky I am to have them. I helped with the food, and by helped, all I mean is that I brought over the trusted red pot and another of Lolly’s fail proof recipes. It’s one of those meals that I love because the red pot works its magic without anyone having to run around with last minute sauces.

 

As with the chicken, this can absolutely be made in a regular dutch oven.

 

Red Pot – Part II
Mexican Pulled Beef Tacos

Serves 6 


Ingredients

2lbs organic beef chuck
2 onions
5 cloves of garlic
2 tablespoons of tomato paste
1 small can of chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon of cumin
1 chipotle pepper

 

Method

1. Preheat oven to 350. Generously salt and pepper the meat and place in the red pot
2. Roughly chop the onion and place around the meat
3. Peel the garlic cloves and scatter in the pot
4. Pour water into the pot so it comes 1/4 “ up the sides
5. Mix the tomato paste with the can of tomatoes and the cumin in a bowl and pour over the meat
6. Add the chipotle pepper
7. Cover and cook for 3 hours
8. Remove the meat and shred with two forks
9. While you are shredding the meat, you can reduce the sauce in the pot on the stove top
10. Discard chipotle pepper
11. Return the meat to the pot

Serve with warmed tortillas and Mexican fixings. We had yellow rice and beans, chopped cilantro, cubed avocado and grated cheese along with my highly inauthentic Mexican weakness, sour cream.