Ricchi e Poveri

 

I didn’t think it was possible for me to be more impressed by Steve Sando and all he’s done to raise awareness of heirloom beans. That was until I found out that my culinary hero, Marcella Hazan, was not only a fan and a customer but also the inspiration for Steve to bring Marcella’s favorite bean, the sorana, to America. The two food luminaries sadly never met but Steve kept her updated on the progress of his first crop and just as he was ready to send her the first bag, he got the devastating news of her death. Now the aptly named ‘Marcella’ bean is available to us all and a wonderful tribute to the woman who did for Italian food what Steve has done for the bean.

 

I’ve used them here in a recipe that reminds me of summer, something I’m craving right now as the temperature drops. Ricchi e Poveri (Rich and Poor), was a staple on Italian menus in the 70’s and a dish that my mother often made for me growing up. The rich being the seafood and the poor being the beans. The seafood can be anything from lobster to a mixture of shellfish from prawns to mussels. The dressing is simple; just garlic, extra virgin olive oil, salt and some chopped parsley – I think Marcella would approve.

 

Ricchi e Poveri

Serves 4-6 as a starter

Ingredients:

3 cups of cooked Marcella Beans (see note below), or any type of cannellini beans

1 lb. shellfish (I used a mixture of 1/2 lb. prawns and 1/2 lb. rock shrimp)

1/4 cup vermouth

1 garlic clove (smashed)

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

 

Method:

1. In a large pan, bring 2″ of water to a slow simmer and add vermouth. Add the seafood and gently simmer for 2-3 minutes until just cooked through. Drain immediately and add to a bowl.

2. In a large bowl, mix the garlic, salt, olive oil and lemon juice. Remove the garlic and then add the cooked beans and seafood and stir gently.

3. Add the parsley and check for seasoning. Serve warm with crusty bread.

 

To cook the beans:

A good heirloom bean needs little more than water and some salt. As Steve says, even though these beans are small, you should take your time and gently allow them to fully cook. They are edible quite soon after you start but the real creaminess comes with time and low, slow and gentle heat. I threw in some carrots and celery to the water because I had them on hand but they are not necessary. Cover the beans with cold water and bring to a very gentle simmer. Taste after 45 mins to see how they’re getting on – you’ll know when they’re ready.

Tagliatelle ai Funghi

 

Today is National Spaghetti day. A day that should be celebrated with gusto even if I’m going to use a little poetic license to include Tagliatelle. An old favorite, I love the different textures and subtle flavors from the medley of mushrooms all rolled into the ultimate comfort food. It’s rich, it’s creamy and it takes less than 10 minutes to make. If only everything in life were that easy.

 

I should probably be starting off the new year with a cleansing soup but why change the habit of a lifetime? I’m too excited about 2016 and all it’s bringing to limit my pasta intake. The first Many Kitchens Cookbook will be in stores in a couple of weeks and I’m holding an advance copy in my hands! I hope you’ll order a copy and enjoy all the incredible recipes our generous producers have kindly shared.

 

 

Tagliatelle ai Funghi

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, smashed then minced

1 lb mixed sliced mushrooms (I used cremini, portabello, shiitake and oyster mushrooms)

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup of chicken stock (use vegetable stock if you want to make the recipe vegetarian)

1 lb of tagliatelle

1 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

 

Method:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil (be sure to reserve one cup of water after boiling pasta).

2. Mix butter and olive oil in a large sauté pan and add in garlic. Cook for one minute then add in mushrooms. Cook mushrooms for 5-10 minutes until they’ve released some of their liquid and softened. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add chicken stock and increase heat to high. Meanwhile cook the pasta according to instructions.

4. Add a cup of cream to the mushroom mixture, stir then add in the lemon juice. Cook sauce for a further minute on medium heat until all the ingredients have melded.

5. Toss pasta in creamy mushroom sauce and toss with parsley and Parmesan cheese

 

Mer Du Japon

 

Whether you like to spend New Year’s Eve out and about or hiding from the craziness (like I do), it’s fun to ring in the new year with a sip of something special. This cocktail comes to us from the master bartender at the wonderful James Restaurant in Brooklyn and is made with yuzu, a tart East Asian citrus fruit. James’ sister company, Cecil & Merl, have a fantastic line of bitters that we’re so pleased to be selling on Many Kitchens. We’ve included it in our Cocktail Gift Box that could just as easily be a Mocktail Gift Box for you teetotalers. A dash or two of their bitters can make a seltzer water taste like an exotic cocktail. Here’s wishing you a very happy 2016 – may it be a tasty one!

 

Mer Du Japon

Makes 1 drink

Ingredients:

1/4 oz yuzu juice (worth finding fresh or bottled but at a pinch you can use a mixture of orange and lime)

3/4 oz vanilla liqueur

1 1/2 oz vodka

1/4 oz simple syrup

5 dashes Cecil & Merl Apricot Bitters

 

Method:

Build this cocktail in a champagne flute by adding one ingredient at a time and topping with C & M Apricot Bitters and soda.

Mulled Wine

 

This year I’m spending Christmas in New York and am excited to roam the near empty city streets in record breaking balmy weather and make a dent on the pile of books by my bed. An ever growing pile thanks to my generous publishing friends that has been ignored in the last few weeks spent frantically processing, packing and chasing orders. Soon it will be time to relax and regenerate. For me, that will include the aforementioned books, some mulled wine and mince pies all devoured atop my big sofa with my new puppy snuggled beside me. Realistically, the new puppy will be ripping up everything in sight but it’s nice to have the idyllic fantasy. I wish you all a very happy Christmas. 

 

Mulled Wine

Ingredients:

2 clementines

4 allspice berries

4 whole cloves

2 cinnamon sticks (plus additional for garnish)

1/4 cup honey

1 bottle red wine (fruit forward wines work well)

1/4 cup brandy

 

Method:

1. Peel your clementines with a vegetable peeler, reserve as garnish. Then juice the clementines into a stockpot. 

2. Add in your mulling spices: allspice, cloves and cinnamon. Then add in honey, wine and brandy and bring to a boil. 

3. Reduce to a simmer and heat for ten minutes. Then strain into heatproof cups and garnish with clementine peel and cinnamon sticks.

4. Enjoy!

 

Speculoos Tiramisù

 

Tiramisù is one of those desserts that’s universally loved. As a child, I was given mascarpone mixed with sugar and coffee which was perhaps contrary to today’s child rearing advice and might have been responsible for some hyperactivity but I couldn’t get enough of it.

 

Tiramisù takes no time at all to put together and can be made in advance whether you’re making individual portions or a large dish for a feast. The only tricky part is sourcing the traditional ‘ladyfingers’. We substituted Little Beligian’s Speculoos which have so much more flavor and the cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves made the whole dish taste so Christmasy!

 

Speculoos Tiramisù

Servings: 4 individual cups 

Ingredients:

3 large egg yolks, room temperature

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 cup liquor (Marsala wine, dark rum or brandy (debate goes out as to the traditional alcohol- opt for what you prefer or have on hand)

1/2 cup brewed espresso

8 oz mascarpone cheese

16 speculoos cookies (1 bag of original speculoos, you may have some leftover for munching as you assemble)

Shaved dark chocolate for topping 

 

Method:

1. In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat egg yolks and sugar together. Mix for about 5 minutes on high until mixture turns pale yellow and thickens.

2. Add in 2 tablespoons of liquor and 1/4 cup espresso. Stir mixture till all ingredients are incorporated.

3. In a small bowl, combine remaining liquor and espresso.

4. Break your speculoos in order to fit to the bottom of your individual glasses (I broke in 4 pieces for my smallest layer). Dip the cookies quickly in the small bowl of liquor and espresso and place in the bottom of container.

5. Dollop a large spoonful of mascarpone cream in each glass and smooth the top.

6. Repeat with a second layer of speculoos cookies dipped in espresso and mascarpone cream on top.

7. To finish, use a microplane to dust the top with dark chocolate. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

 

Date and Tamarind Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Carrots and Parsnips

 

I can’t think of a better time than Thanksgiving to introduce you all to Hawa Hassan and her incredible Somali chutneys. Like so many of our producers, Hawa gives thanks by paying it forward. She has partnered with Hawa Abdi to help raise funds for her Human Rights Foundation. And how is Hawa Hassan spending her upcoming 30th birthday? She’s flying to Kenya to donate and distribute kits to at-risk girls in Kenya through Huru International.

 

Hawa Hassan’s own story is an inspiring one. She fled Mogadishu at the age of 5 with her mother and siblings to a UN refugee camp in Kenya. At the age of 10 her mother sent her to America for a better life and a few years later she was discovered by a modeling scout and spent years traveling the world. She was finally reunited with her mother who now lives in Norway and runs a business as well as caring for Hawa’s nine siblings! Inspired by her mother, her Somali heritage and a passion for cooking, Hawa returned to New York and started a line of chutneys that are truly spectacular.

 

 

“When people think of Somalia, they only think of refugees and pirates and I would like to help change that perception,” Hawa told me last week. Due to years of unrest, Somalia’s rich cultural heritage has been largely ignored. Thanks to centuries of trade and commerce, it is a country whose culture is steeped in literature, music, art, architecture as well as an exotic cuisine of diverse influences. A staple of Somali feasts is Basbaas; boldly flavored sweet and tangy chutneys that Hawa now produces and describes as “truly global but entirely local”.

 

I’ve already eeked out every last drop from my jars and am desperate for more. The Coconut Cilantro Chutney is packed with fresh and bright flavors while the Tamarind Date Sauce is smoky with just the right amount of sweet. I paired the former with scallops and a fresh relish and the latter with roasted pork tenderloin and root vegetables as a Thanksgiving alternative. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

 

Date and Tamarind Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Carrots and Parsnips

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 1/4 lb pork tenderloin

Salt

1 jar of Tamarind Date Sauce

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 lb carrots, peeled and cut into 2″ x 1/2″ slices

1 lb parsnips, peeled and cut into 2″ x 1/2″ slices

3 tablespoons olive oil

 

Method:

1. Heat oven to 400°F.

2. Bring the pork tenderloin to room temperature, season well with salt and coat with 3 tablespoons of Tamarind Date Sauce.

3. Line a cookie tray with parchment paper and toss the carrots and parsnips in the olive oil and a teaspoon of salt. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, heat the canola oil in a large skillet big enough to hold the pork. When the oil is hot, sear the pork for 2 minutes on all sides until nicely browned.

5. Remove the carrots and parsnips from the oven, stir well and make space for the pork in the middle of the cookie tray. Return to the oven for a further 15 – 20 minutes. If the vegetables are ready before the meat, remove them to a platter and tent with foil.

6. Lay the meat on top of the vegetables and brush with Tamarind Date Sauce before serving.

Get the recipe for Scallops with Mango, Avocado Relish and Basbaas 

Scallops with Mango, Avocado Relish and Basbaas

 

Scallops with Mango, Avocado Relish and Basbaas

Serves 4

Ingredients:

12 large scallops

Sea salt

Canola oil

1 mango, cubed

1/2 avocado, cubed

2 tablespoons of cubed red pepper

1 tablespoon finely cubed red onion

1 tablespoon Coconut Cilantro Chutney

 

Method:

1. Remove the muscle on the side of each scallop and discard. Then lay your scallops on a plate lined with a paper towel.

2. In a large bowl, mix the mango, avocado, red pepper, red onion and chutney.

3. Heat a large skillet (big enough not to crowd the scallops) and season the scallops on both sides with sea salt.

4. Add enough Canola oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Just before it starts to smoke, add the scallops and cook until you get a beautiful brown sear – about 2 minutes per side (no more than that as they can overcook very quickly). Remove to clean paper towels.

5. Divide the relish among 4 plates, spooning into the center of each plate to create height. To finish, top each plate with 3 scallops. Serve while the scallops are still warm.

Saucey Sauce Game Day Wings

 

Saucey Sauces sauces are the perfect accompaniment to wings. They’ve given us their signature recipe that works will all their sauces but for these ones we’ve chosen the Spicy Garlic Wings.

 

Game Day Wings
Serves 6-8

 

Ingredients:
2 lbs. chicken wings
Frying oil, such as peanut oil
Pinch of salt
Pinch of finely ground black pepper
3 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup Sweet Ginger Sauce

 

Method:
Pour oil into a medium sized heavy bottomed pot – adding enough to create a 4 inch deep layer. Heat the oil over medium heat till the oil is hot, about 375 degrees.

 

Wash and prepare the wings. Add the salt, pepper, and flour to a sealable tupperware container. Dredge the wings in flour a few at a time, shaking the container to coat thoroughly.

 

Working in batches, fry the wings until golden brown, about 5-7 minutes. Once cooked through remove from the pan and dry on a sheet tray lined with paper towels. To keep the chicken warm while frying the remaining wings store the sheet tray in an oven set to 100 degrees.

 

Add the Sweet Ginger Sauce to a medium sized bowl and toss with wings until throughly coated. Serve warm.

A Taste of Persia: Spinach Borani and Bandari Monkfish

 

 

My education in Persian cuisine is only just beginning. Armed with books by Claudia Roden, Lousia Shafia and my new favorite cookbook, Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour, I’ve been trying to teach myself the basics. I’m getting closer to achieving that perfect crunchy, buttery, golden brown crust (tahdig) on my Persian rice and my culinary vocabulary is slowly growing.

 

I’ve also enlisted the help of Tay Tea’s founder, Nini Ordoubadi who (quite rightly) berated me for not including a Persian menu in Recipes From Many Kitchens. Nini is a third generation tea blender from Iran. Her blends are as original as Nini herself; eclectic, exotic and whimsical. A recent feast at her home in Harlem showed me her talents extend beyond the tea room to the kitchen. She kindly shared her recipe for her saffron infused spinach borani. Although traditionally served as an appetizer, I’ve paired it here with a monkfish recipe from Persiana. The mild flavored fish is marinated in a heady mix of spices, herbs and yoghurt and was the perfect accompaniment to Nini’s borani.

 

Nini’s Spinach Borani

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 cups of fresh spinach, washed and chopped

2 small onions, peeled and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 cups drained yogurt

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon saffron, divided (1/4 teaspoon ground in a pestle and mortar and 1/4 teaspoon dissolved in 1 tablespoon of hot water).

 

Method:

1. In a pan with a tight fitting lid, cook the spinach until wilted, about 5 minutes. Drain well and squeeze out any excess liquid.

2. Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet and fry the onions and garlic until lightly browned. About 10 minutes.

3. Add the spinach to the onions and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

4. In a bowl, mix the yoghurt and spinach mixture well. Season with the salt and pepper and stir in the powdered saffron. Refrigerate for several hours.

5. Garnish with the saffron water before serving.

 

Bandari Monkfish

Adapted from Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 fat garlic cloves, minced

2″ piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced

Handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped (plus extra for serving)

Handful of dill, finely chopped

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons Greek yogurt

Olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 monkfish tails or fillets, about 6-7 ounces each, skinned and cleaned

 

Method:

1. Mix all the dry spices together in a bowl and then add in the garlic, ginger, fresh herbs, lime zest, lime juice, yogurt and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir well with a spoon until thoroughly combined. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

2. Place the monkfish in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over the fillets. Using your hands, distribute the paste on all sides of the fish. Cover again with plastic wrap and refrigerate for another 30 minutes. Bring fish to room temperature before cooking.

3. Preheat a frying pan over medium high heat. When hot, drizzle in a little olive oil. Gently lay the fish in the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes on each side or until opaque all the way through.

4. Leave to rest for 1-2 minutes before serving. Top with extra cilantro leaves.

Salmon en Croute

 

The first time I made Salmon en Croute it was to impress a boy. I was 19, inexperienced in the kitchen and thought it seemed sophisticated (unlike me). I’m not sure I impressed the boy but I definitely impressed myself. I learnt a valuable lesson that day; nothing is ever as complicated as it seems in the kitchen. Surprisingly simple to put together, the flaky puff pastry and the asparagus sauce keep the fish juicy and tender. There’s not much that isn’t improved by being wrapped in pastry and salmon is no exception. Make it in advance and just pop it in the oven 20 minutes before you’re ready to eat. Served with a simple salad and some boiled new potatoes, it’s perfect for a dinner party. 

 

Salmon en Croute

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1 salmon fillet (about 1 1/2 lbs, skinned and boned)

1 lb fresh asparagus, cut just below the tips

4 tablespoons crème fraîche

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Zest of 1/2 lemon

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 sheets of puff pastry (about 10″x 8″)

1 egg lightly beaten

 

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

2. Poach the asparagus tips in boiling water for 3 minutes and drain well.

3. In a food processor, purée the asparagus, crème fraîche, dill and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Line a cookie tray with parchment paper and lay down one sheet of the puff pastry. Lay the salmon on the pastry and season with salt. 

5. Spread the asparagus crème fraîche mixture on top of the salmon. 

6. Brush the rim of the pastry around the salmon with egg and then lay the second sheet of pastry over the salmon. Press down the edges to seal. Trim the pastry leaving a 1″ border around the salmon. Use a fork to press around the edges to ensure the layers of pastry are well sealed. 

7. Cut 3 small diagonal slits along the top of the pastry to allow the steam to escape.

8. Brush the pastry all over with the remaining egg and bake in the oven until the crust is golden brown – about 20 minutes.