I didn’t think it was possible for me to be more impressed by Steve Sando and all he’s done to raise awareness of heirloom beans. That was until I found out that my culinary hero, Marcella Hazan, was not only a fan and a customer but also the inspiration for Steve to bring Marcella’s favorite bean, the sorana, to America. The two food luminaries sadly never met but Steve kept her updated on the progress of his first crop and just as he was ready to send her the first bag, he got the devastating news of her death. Now the aptly named ‘Marcella’ bean is available to us all and a wonderful tribute to the woman who did for Italian food what Steve has done for the bean.

 

I’ve used them here in a recipe that reminds me of summer, something I’m craving right now as the temperature drops. Ricchi e Poveri (Rich and Poor), was a staple on Italian menus in the 70’s and a dish that my mother often made for me growing up. The rich being the seafood and the poor being the beans. The seafood can be anything from lobster to a mixture of shellfish from prawns to mussels. The dressing is simple; just garlic, extra virgin olive oil, salt and some chopped parsley – I think Marcella would approve.

 

Ricchi e Poveri

Serves 4-6 as a starter

Ingredients:

3 cups of cooked Marcella Beans (see note below), or any type of cannellini beans

1 lb. shellfish (I used a mixture of 1/2 lb. prawns and 1/2 lb. rock shrimp)

1/4 cup vermouth

1 garlic clove (smashed)

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

 

Method:

1. In a large pan, bring 2″ of water to a slow simmer and add vermouth. Add the seafood and gently simmer for 2-3 minutes until just cooked through. Drain immediately and add to a bowl.

2. In a large bowl, mix the garlic, salt, olive oil and lemon juice. Remove the garlic and then add the cooked beans and seafood and stir gently.

3. Add the parsley and check for seasoning. Serve warm with crusty bread.

 

To cook the beans:

A good heirloom bean needs little more than water and some salt. As Steve says, even though these beans are small, you should take your time and gently allow them to fully cook. They are edible quite soon after you start but the real creaminess comes with time and low, slow and gentle heat. I threw in some carrots and celery to the water because I had them on hand but they are not necessary. Cover the beans with cold water and bring to a very gentle simmer. Taste after 45 mins to see how they’re getting on – you’ll know when they’re ready.

 

Scallops with Mango, Avocado Relish and Basbaas

Serves 4

Ingredients:

12 large scallops

Sea salt

Canola oil

1 mango, cubed

1/2 avocado, cubed

2 tablespoons of cubed red pepper

1 tablespoon finely cubed red onion

1 tablespoon Coconut Cilantro Chutney

 

Method:

1. Remove the muscle on the side of each scallop and discard. Then lay your scallops on a plate lined with a paper towel.

2. In a large bowl, mix the mango, avocado, red pepper, red onion and chutney.

3. Heat a large skillet (big enough not to crowd the scallops) and season the scallops on both sides with sea salt.

4. Add enough Canola oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Just before it starts to smoke, add the scallops and cook until you get a beautiful brown sear – about 2 minutes per side (no more than that as they can overcook very quickly). Remove to clean paper towels.

5. Divide the relish among 4 plates, spooning into the center of each plate to create height. To finish, top each plate with 3 scallops. Serve while the scallops are still warm.

 

 

My education in Persian cuisine is only just beginning. Armed with books by Claudia Roden, Lousia Shafia and my new favorite cookbook, Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour, I’ve been trying to teach myself the basics. I’m getting closer to achieving that perfect crunchy, buttery, golden brown crust (tahdig) on my Persian rice and my culinary vocabulary is slowly growing.

 

I’ve also enlisted the help of Tay Tea’s founder, Nini Ordoubadi who (quite rightly) berated me for not including a Persian menu in Recipes From Many Kitchens. Nini is a third generation tea blender from Iran. Her blends are as original as Nini herself; eclectic, exotic and whimsical. A recent feast at her home in Harlem showed me her talents extend beyond the tea room to the kitchen. She kindly shared her recipe for her saffron infused spinach borani. Although traditionally served as an appetizer, I’ve paired it here with a monkfish recipe from Persiana. The mild flavored fish is marinated in a heady mix of spices, herbs and yoghurt and was the perfect accompaniment to Nini’s borani.

 

Nini’s Spinach Borani

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 cups of fresh spinach, washed and chopped

2 small onions, peeled and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 cups drained yogurt

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon saffron, divided (1/4 teaspoon ground in a pestle and mortar and 1/4 teaspoon dissolved in 1 tablespoon of hot water).

 

Method:

1. In a pan with a tight fitting lid, cook the spinach until wilted, about 5 minutes. Drain well and squeeze out any excess liquid.

2. Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet and fry the onions and garlic until lightly browned. About 10 minutes.

3. Add the spinach to the onions and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

4. In a bowl, mix the yoghurt and spinach mixture well. Season with the salt and pepper and stir in the powdered saffron. Refrigerate for several hours.

5. Garnish with the saffron water before serving.

 

Bandari Monkfish

Adapted from Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 fat garlic cloves, minced

2″ piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced

Handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped (plus extra for serving)

Handful of dill, finely chopped

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons Greek yogurt

Olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 monkfish tails or fillets, about 6-7 ounces each, skinned and cleaned

 

Method:

1. Mix all the dry spices together in a bowl and then add in the garlic, ginger, fresh herbs, lime zest, lime juice, yogurt and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir well with a spoon until thoroughly combined. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

2. Place the monkfish in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over the fillets. Using your hands, distribute the paste on all sides of the fish. Cover again with plastic wrap and refrigerate for another 30 minutes. Bring fish to room temperature before cooking.

3. Preheat a frying pan over medium high heat. When hot, drizzle in a little olive oil. Gently lay the fish in the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes on each side or until opaque all the way through.

4. Leave to rest for 1-2 minutes before serving. Top with extra cilantro leaves.

 

The first time I made Salmon en Croute it was to impress a boy. I was 19, inexperienced in the kitchen and thought it seemed sophisticated (unlike me). I’m not sure I impressed the boy but I definitely impressed myself. I learnt a valuable lesson that day; nothing is ever as complicated as it seems in the kitchen. Surprisingly simple to put together, the flaky puff pastry and the asparagus sauce keep the fish juicy and tender. There’s not much that isn’t improved by being wrapped in pastry and salmon is no exception. Make it in advance and just pop it in the oven 20 minutes before you’re ready to eat. Served with a simple salad and some boiled new potatoes, it’s perfect for a dinner party. 

 

Salmon en Croute

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1 salmon fillet (about 1 1/2 lbs, skinned and boned)

1 lb fresh asparagus, cut just below the tips

4 tablespoons crème fraîche

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Zest of 1/2 lemon

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 sheets of puff pastry (about 10″x 8″)

1 egg lightly beaten

 

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

2. Poach the asparagus tips in boiling water for 3 minutes and drain well.

3. In a food processor, purée the asparagus, crème fraîche, dill and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Line a cookie tray with parchment paper and lay down one sheet of the puff pastry. Lay the salmon on the pastry and season with salt. 

5. Spread the asparagus crème fraîche mixture on top of the salmon. 

6. Brush the rim of the pastry around the salmon with egg and then lay the second sheet of pastry over the salmon. Press down the edges to seal. Trim the pastry leaving a 1″ border around the salmon. Use a fork to press around the edges to ensure the layers of pastry are well sealed. 

7. Cut 3 small diagonal slits along the top of the pastry to allow the steam to escape.

8. Brush the pastry all over with the remaining egg and bake in the oven until the crust is golden brown – about 20 minutes.